We previously ran an All About Primers Ask the Expert activity -- we're resharing this valuable information in conjunction with our Painting Prep Tips & Tricks activity.
QUESTION: I have very old, not so great quality, kitchen cabinets. I have been considering redoing them with Rust-Oleum chalk paint. I have never used chalk paint before, so seeking your guidance on how to prepare the cabinets, and then if I should use a separate primer coat first to prevent bleed through, and what product would I use that would work best with chalk paint? Appreciate your advice and any tips.
ANSWER: Taking on kitchen cabinets is a big project, but has such a great payout in the end. The most important thing about any project, but especially cabinets, is the prep work. Let me say that again, do not skip out on the prep!
Follow these steps to get your cabinets looks beautiful and new!
1. Remove all the doors from the hinges
2. Remove all hardware. TIP: This is a great time to spray paint the hardware if you want a new look.
3. Degloss with either a liquid degloss or a light sanding. I personally would recommend a light sanding for the best possible look.
4. After deglossing we suggest using Krud Kutter Prepaint Cleaner or another denatured alcohol on the surface to remove any remaining grease or dirt.
5. At this point, you are ready to prime! I would recommend either Zinsser Cover Stain or Zinsser BIN. Neither of these primers are water-based primer, which means they will have a stronger odor and be a little bit hard to clean up, but the end result is worth the hassle. Both of these primers do an excellent job at fully sealing the wood surface and preventing any bleed though in the wood.
NOTE: If you were to use a water based primer (Zinsser Bulls Eye 123) you will most likely start to see the grain of the cabinets bleeding through the chalked paint in a few years. Water based primers cannot hide water stains, which is what causes wood to bleed.
6. Next comes the paint! Pick out your favorite color of Rust-Oleum Chalked Paint and watch your kitchen come to life. TIP: If you want more of a distressed look, after the paint has dried lightly sand the edges with a fine to medium sand paper (180-220 grit). The more you sand the more the original surface will show through
7. For added durability and protection, you can apply one coat of Rust-Oleum Chalked Clear Topcoat. This will add a little bit of sheen back to the surface, but is not necessary. Adding a topcoat will also make the surface easier to clean.
I hope this helps & your project turns out well!
QUESTION: I have both types of Bullseye 123 primers in my paint supply closet. Why would I chose using one formulation over the other. I confess I tend to use acrylic more so because of the clean ups.
ANSWER: What a great question! For most household projects, I would suggest using a water based primer (also sometimes referred to as latex primer or acrylic primer). As you mentioned, they are super easy to clean up and have less of an odor than oil based primers. The main difference between water based and oil based primers is their stain blocking abilities. For primers remember opposites!
Oil based stains (the crayon, pen, or marker your two year old drew all over the wall) are best hidden by water based primers. Water based stains (a water spot on drywall from a leaking pipe or the wood bleeding through after painting a cabinet) are best covered by oil based primers. Choosing the correct type of primer for the project will help lead to the desired results.
Suggested Oil Based Primer Projects: Water Stains, Kitchen Cabinets, Cedar/Wood Siding, Wooden Mailboxes
I hope this clears up some confusion. Let me know if there is any other way I can help!
QUESTION: Can I reapply and fix some areas on painted walls that didn't have enough mudwork done before painting? I would reapply Zinsser GARDZ Problem Surface Sealer on the spots I want to improve, then mud and sand, apply another coat of Zinsser GARDZ Problem Surface Sealer and then repaint. Would that be the right order, and does it sound like it would work?
ANSWER: This is a great question! I recently went through and had to do patch work in my house as well and it can be intimidating at first. The good news is you don’t need Zinsser Gardz for this project which will save you a step. Zinsser Gardz is best for locking down remnants of old wall paper strips, or damaged walls from wall paper removal. Your photo does not look that extreme.
I would suggest applying MH Ready Patch to the wall with a putty knife. Let the putty dry then sand it down to be flat with your wall. Next primer with your favorite Zinsser Primer to help adhesion of your paint; I would suggest Bulls Eye 123. Finally, paint with your favorite color and admire your beautiful work!
I hope your project goes well! Let me know if there is any other way I can help!
Follow-up question: The walls were pretty bad from wallpaper removal, which was I used the Gardz - and it was perfect! I just kept trying to say that the mud wasn't enough but no one listened to me, lol! I have lots of Gardz left, could I mud, sand, and then use it as the primer? Or is the Bulls Eye 123 better on the painted surface?
Follow-up answer: In that case using the Gardz as a primer on top should work just fine. It will seal the surface and provide a good surface for the paint to grip onto over the mud.
ANSWER: This is a great question and something a lot of people wonder. I'm going to have to answer this question in two post due to the character max, but this is valuable information so I didn't want to cut it down.
Other than for repainting walls staying in the same color range, there is always a great benefit to priming. Primers are typically used for four things: sealing porous surfaces, increasing adhesion of the paint to hard-to-stick-to surfaces, preventing or eliminating stains and odors, and hiding dark colors.
Porous surfaces: If not primed, new wood and drywall, and low cost wall paint are very porous. If painted directly over, finishes will show as uneven creating “high and low” spots. Topcoat paint durability will also be diminished.
Adhesion: Paint and primer are chemically similar, but primers have a lower pigment (color) concentration and a higher resin concentration. Resin is the thing that makes the coating more durable. A higher resin concentration will help the primer (and paint on top) last longer and adhere to harder to stick to surfaces. Paint has a hard time sticking to slick surfaces such as tile, but primer gives the paint something to grip onto and helps prevent peeling.
Stain Blocking:
Stains can come in many forms, crayon, sharpie, water, smoke, nicotine, odor, and more. Different stains require different types of primers. Oil based stains (the crayon and pen your two year old drew all over the wall) are best hidden by water based primers; I would suggest Zinsser Bulls Eye 123. Water based stains from your leaking pipe or tannin bleed in wood are best covered by oil based primers like Zinsser Cover Stain. Knots/tannin bleed in wood, smoke stains, and odor are best treated by shellac based primer such as Zinsser BIN. REMEMBER: Water Stain use Oil Based Primer; Oil Stain use Water Based Primer
Hiding Dark Colors:
You really don’t need to prime every time you paint a wall, but there definitely are benefits that come from using primer. If you are trying to go from a dark color to a lighter color, I highly suggest using a primer. Dark colors can be challenging to hide and can require multiple coats of paint. Typically, one coat of primer and one coat of paint is cheaper than two coats of paint. Another added benefit of primer is a sealed surface. Primer helps to fill in porous surfaces give the paint on top a nice smooth appearance while using less paint. TIP: Ask your local paint store to tint your primer closer to your topcoat color to eliminate excess coats.
I hope this gives you a better understanding of the reasons to use primer and some best practices to follow.
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